Kutanga kubva mukupera kwaGumiguru, kwave nemazuva akati wandei akateedzana ekuratidzira kwevashandi muindasitiri yemachira vachida kuwedzerwa kwakakosha muhoro muguta guru nenzvimbo dzemaindasitiri dzeBangladesh.Maitiro aya akamutsawo nhaurirano nezve indasitiri yembatya yekuvimba nepamusoro kwenguva refu pabasa rakachipa.
Mhedzisiro yenyaya yese ndeyekuti seyechipiri pasi rose mutengesi wemachira mushure meChina, Bangladesh ine mafekitori embatya anosvika mazana matatu nemazana mashanu uye inoshandisa vashandi vangangosvika mamirioni mana.Kuti zvizadzise zvinodikanwa zvemhando dzinozivikanwa pasi rese, vashandi vemicheka vanowanzoda kushanda nguva yakawandisa, asi mari shoma yavanogona kuwana i8300 chete Bangladesh Taka/mwedzi, iyo inenge 550 RMB kana 75 US madhora.
Mafekitari anosvika mazana matatu akavharwa
Vakatarisana nekukwira kwemitengo kunosvika gumi muzana mugore rapfuura, vashandi vemicheka muBangladesh vari kukurukura nezvemihoro mitsva yemuhoro nemasangano evaridzi vemabhizinesi eindasitiri yemachira.Chinodiwa chekupedzisira kubva kuvashandi ndechekuda kupeta katatu muhoro wepasi kusvika 20390 Taka, asi varidzi vebhizinesi vakangokurudzira kuwedzera kwe25% kusvika 10400 Taka, zvichiita kuti mamiriro acho atonyanya kunetsa.
Mapurisa akati mafekitari anodarika mazana matatu akavharwa mukati mekuratidzira kwevhiki rose.Kusvika pari zvino, kuratidzira uku kwakonzera kufa kwevashandi vaviri pamwe nekukuvara kwakawanda.
Mutungamiriri wemubatanidzwa wezvipfeko akataura neChishanu chapfuura kuti Levi's neH&M ndiwo mabhureki epamusoro embatya akasangana nekumiswa kwekugadzirwa muBangladesh.
Mafekitari akawanda akapambwa nevashandi vairamwa mabasa, uye mamwe mazana akavharwa nevaridzi vedzimba kuti asakuvadzwa nemaune.Kalpona Akter, Sachigaro weBangladesh Federation of Clothing and Industrial Workers (BGIWF), akaudza Agence France Presse kuti mafekitori akamiswa anosanganisira "mafekitori makuru munyika anogadzira zvipfeko zvemhando dzese dzakakura dzekuMadokero nevatengesi".
Akawedzera kuti: "Zvigadzirwa zvinosanganisira Gap, Wal Mart, H&M, Zara, Inditex, Bestseller, Levi's, Marks naSpencer, Primary naAldi."
Mutauriri wePrimark akataura kuti mutengesi weDublin anokurumidza fashoni "haana kumbovhiringika kune yedu yekugovera".
Mutauriri akawedzera kuti, "Tichiri kusangana nevatengesi vedu, vamwe vacho vakavhara mafekitori avo kwenguva pfupi panguva ino."Vagadziri vakakuvadzwa panguva yechiitiko ichi havadi kuburitsa mazita emhando avakabatana nawo, vachitya kurasikirwa nevatengi.
Kusiyana kwakakura pakati pebasa nehutungamiri
Mukupindura mamiriro ari kuwedzera kutyisa, Faruque Hassan, sachigaro weBangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), akachemawo nemamiriro akaita indasitiri iyi: kutsigira kudiwa kwekuwedzera kwemuhoro kwevashandi veBangladeshi zvinoreva kuti zvipfeko zvekuMadokero zvinoda wedzera odha yavo mitengo.Kunyangwe mabhureki aya achiti anotsigira kuwedzera kwemihoro yevashandi, chokwadi, anotyisidzira kuendesa maodha kune dzimwe nyika kana mitengo yakwira.
Pakupera kwaSeptember gore rino, Hassan akanyorera kuAmerican Apparel and Footwear Association, achitarisira kuti vachauya uye vanyengetedze ma brand makuru kuti awedzere mitengo yezvokupfeka zvipfeko.Vakanyora mutsamba iyi kuti, “Izvi zvakakosha zvikuru kuti pave neshanduko yakapfava kuenda kumipimo mitsva yemuhoro.Mafekitori eBangladesh akatarisana nemamiriro ekushaya simba kwepasirese uye ari muhusiku senge 'mamiriro'.
Parizvino, Bangladesh Minimum Wage Commission iri kurongeka nemapato ese ane chekuita, uye makotesheni kubva kune varidzi vemabhizinesi anonziwo "haagoneke" nehurumende.Asi varidzi vefekitori vanopokanawo kuti kana iyo yepasi muhoro inodiwa yevashandi inodarika 20000 Taka yasangana, Bangladesh inorasikirwa nemukana wayo wekukwikwidza.
Semhando yebhizinesi ye "fast fashion" indasitiri, mabhureki makuru anokwikwidza kupa vatengi hwaro hwemutengo wakaderera, wakadzika mumari yakaderera yevashandi munyika dzeAsia dzinotengesa kunze.Mabhureki anomanikidza mafekitori kuti ape mitengo yakaderera, izvo zvinozoonekwa mumihoro yevashandi.Seimwe yenyika huru dzepasi rose dzekutengesa machira, Bangladesh, ine mihoro yakaderera yevashandi, yakatarisana nekubuda kwakazara kwekupokana.
Hofori dzokuMadokero dzinopindura sei?
Takatarisana nezvido zvevashandi vemicheka veBangladeshi, mamwe ma brand anozivikanwa akaitawo mhinduro zviri pamutemo.
Mutauriri weH&M akataura kuti kambani inotsigira kuunzwa kwemuhoro mutsva wekubhadhara mari dzekugara dzevashandi nemhuri dzavo.Mutauriri aramba kutaura nezvekuti H&M ichawedzera mitengo yemaodha kuti itsigire kukwidzwa kwemihoro, asi akataura kuti kambani iyi ine nzira yekutenga zvinhu inobvumira zvidyarwa zvekugadzira kuwedzera mitengo kuratidza kuwedzera kwemuhoro.
Mutauriri wekambani yevabereki veZara, Inditex, akataura kuti kambani iyi ichangobva kuburitsa chiziviso cheveruzhinji ichivimbisa kutsigira vashandi muchikamu chayo chekugovera mukuzadzisa mihoro yavo.
Zvinoenderana nemagwaro akapihwa neH&M, kune vangangosvika zviuru zvitanhatu zvevashandi vekuBangladeshi mune yese H&M yekugovera cheni muna 2022, neavhareji yemuhoro wepamwedzi wemadhora zana nemakumi matatu nemana, pamusoro peiyo yakaderera mwero muBangladesh.Nekudaro, zvichienzaniswa nekwakarerekera, vashandi vekuCambodian muH&M yekugovera cheni vanogona kuwana avhareji yemadhora mazana maviri nemakumi mapfumbamwe nematatu pamwedzi.Kubva pamaonero emunhu wega wega GDP, Bangladesh yakakwira zvakanyanya kupfuura Cambodia.
Pamusoro pezvo, mihoro yeH&M kuvashandi veIndia yakakwira zvishoma negumi muzana pane yevashandi vekuBangladesh, asi H&M inotengawo zvipfeko zvakanyanya kubva kuBangladesh pane kubva kuIndia neCambodia.
Shangu yeGerman nezvipfeko brand Puma yakataurawo mumushumo wayo wegore ra2022 kuti muhoro unobhadharwa kuvashandi veBangladeshi wakakwira zvakanyanya kupfuura iwo wakaderera bhenji, asi nhamba iyi ingori 70% ye "yenzvimbo yekugara muhoro bhenji" inotsanangurwa nevechitatu-bato masangano ( chiyero apo mihoro inokwana kupa vashandi mararamiro akanaka ivo nemhuri dzavo).Vashandi vanoshandira Puma muCambodia neVietnam vanowana mari inoenderana nemuhoro wekugara.
Puma yakataurawo mukutaura kuti zvakakosha zvikuru kugadzirisa pamwe chete nyaya yemuhoro, sezvo dambudziko iri risingakwanisi kugadziriswa nemhando imwe chete.Puma yakataurawo kuti vatengesi vakuru vazhinji muBangladesh vane marongero ekuona kuti mari yevashandi inosangana nezvido zvemumba, asi kambani ichine "zvinhu zvakawanda zvekuteerera" kuitira kushandura marongero ayo kuita chimwe chiitiko.
Indasitiri yezvipfeko yeBangladesh yakave ne "nhoroondo nhema" yakawanda mukugadzirisa kwayo.Inonyanya kuzivikanwa ndeyekuputsika kwechivako mudunhu reSava muna 2013, uko mafekitari embatya akawanda akaramba achida kuti vashandi vashande mushure mekugamuchira yambiro yehurumende ye "kutsemuka muchivako" ndokuvaudza kuti pakanga pasina nyaya dzekuchengetedza. .Chiitiko ichi chakazoguma nekufa kwe1134 uye chakaita kuti mhando dzepasi rose dzitarise kuvandudza nharaunda yebasa renzvimbo ichinakidzwa nemitengo yakaderera.
Nguva yekutumira: Nov-15-2023